Little known to the general public but already praised by cosmetic laboratories, Kendi oil is emerging as one of the most interesting plant active ingredients for dry, sensitive, or dull skin. Originally from the Pacific, this ancestral oil combines a richness in essential fatty acids and an antioxidant profile that make it a valuable ally, both for gentle makeup removal and for deep skin nourishment. Here's everything you need to know about Kendi oil: where it comes from, what science says about its benefits, and how to intelligently integrate it into your routine.
What is Kendi oil?
Kendi oil is extracted by cold pressing the nuts of the Aleurites moluccana tree, also known as the candlenut tree, or "Kukui" in Hawaii, where it is the state tree. Native to tropical Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia) and the Pacific, this fast-growing tree produces spherical fruits, candlenuts, whose kernels can contain up to 60% oil.
Used for centuries by Pacific peoples for both food and traditional skin and hair care, Kendi oil (INCI: Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil) is now recognized by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) as a safe ingredient for cosmetic use, including on sensitive skin [ref. 4].
The composition of Kendi oil: what science reveals
What distinguishes Kendi oil from other vegetable oils is its lipid profile, which is particularly rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Composition analyses report:
| Component | Average proportion | Role for the skin |
|---|---|---|
| Linoleic acid (omega-6) | 35 to 42 % | Strengthens the skin barrier, limits water loss |
| Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) | 24 to 40 % | Soothes, supports skin comfort |
| Oleic acid (omega-9) | 10 to 35 % | Softens and nourishes |
| Palmitic acid | 5 to 8 % | Oil texture and stability |
| Vitamin E (tocopherols) | significant traces | Antioxidant action |
This unusual combination of the three omega families (3, 6, and 9) in a single oil is relatively rare in the plant kingdom [ref. 3, 5], which explains why Kendi oil penetrates the skin quickly without leaving a greasy film, unlike oils richer in saturated fatty acids like coconut oil.
The benefits of Kendi oil for the skin
1. Intense and lasting hydration
Thanks to its high content of linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, Kendi oil strengthens the skin's hydrolipidic film and limits transepidermal water loss. It acts as an emollient and occlusive active ingredient: it forms a protective veil that helps the skin retain its hydration, while remaining light to the touch. This makes it a choice ingredient for dry, dehydrated, or damaged skin, without a greasy effect or sticky sensation.
2. Documented antioxidant action
Kendi oil contains tocopherols (vitamin E), known for neutralizing free radicals involved in premature skin aging and oxidative stress linked to external aggressions (pollution, UV). This antioxidant dimension is one of the reasons why Kendi oil is increasingly integrated into anti-aging care and so-called "barrier" formulas.
3. Soothing properties, derived from traditional use validated by research
Aleurites moluccana has been studied for several years by Brazilian pharmacological research. A study published in 2012 in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (Cesca et al.) tested a semi-solid preparation based on a standardized plant extract on an animal model: researchers observed a notable acceleration of skin healing as well as measurable analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects, consistent with traditional use described in the pharmacopoeia of the Pacific and South America [ref. 1]. A complementary study by the same team, published in 2015, clarified the mechanism of action of this topical anti-inflammatory effect: it would primarily rely on a reduction in the migration of leukocytes to the inflamed area, leading to a decrease in pro-inflammatory mediators [ref. 2]. These works focus on a standardized leaf extract rather than the seed oil itself: they nevertheless scientifically support the traditional soothing and repairing use associated with this plant for generations in the Pacific.
4. An ally for the elasticity and comfort of damaged skin
Traditionally used in massage, Kendi oil is known to improve skin suppleness and elasticity. It is particularly suitable for dry, tight, or weakened skin, whether on the face or body.
5. A non-greasy texture, suitable for all skin types
Unlike some denser vegetable oils, Kendi oil penetrates quickly without leaving a greasy residue. Its lightness makes it an active ingredient compatible with combination to oily skin, in addition to a richer oil for very dry skin.
How to use Kendi oil in your beauty routine?
Kendi oil can be incorporated into several steps of your facial routine:
As a makeup remover. Thanks to its affinity with fatty substances, an oil rich in fatty acids like Kendi oil effectively dissolves makeup and impurities while respecting the hydrolipidic film, unlike foaming makeup removers that can dry out the skin. This is the principle sought after in an organic makeup remover gel: a texture that combines the softness of an oil-based treatment with the freshness of a gel, for complete makeup removal without tightening the skin.
As a daily moisturizing treatment. Applied pure or integrated into a formula, Kendi oil ideally complements a moisturizing and antioxidant treatment designed to strengthen the skin barrier daily. Combining active ingredients rich in omega and vitamin E, as our moisturizing and antioxidant cream does, allows for accumulated nourishment, comfort, and protection against oxidative stress.
For body massage. A few drops are enough to nourish dry areas (elbows, knees, legs) without a sticky effect.
On dry hair or frizz. Applied in small quantities to lengths and ends, it provides sheathing, softness, and disciplines the hair fiber.
Kendi oil vs. other vegetable oils: how does it differ?
| Oil | Main strength | Texture | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kendi Oil | Omega 3-6-9 balance + Vitamin E | Light, non-greasy | Dry to combination skin, face and hair |
| Coconut Oil | Very occlusive, rich in saturated fatty acids | Rich, potentially greasy film | Very dry skin, body |
| Organic Argan Oil | Rich in Vitamin E, silky texture | Medium | Mature skin |
| Organic Jojoba Oil | Similar to skin sebum | Very light | Combination to oily skin |
The specificity of Kendi oil lies in its triple richness in omegas 3, 6, and 9 combined with rapid penetration: a profile that few vegetable oils simultaneously possess, which explains its increasing use in premium formulations.
Frequently asked questions about Kendi oil
Is Kendi oil comedogenic?
No. Its light texture and composition of unsaturated fatty acids make it a generally well-tolerated oil, even by oily or combination skin types, although a patch test on the elbow crease is still recommended before any first use, as with any new active ingredient.
Is Kendi oil suitable for sensitive skin?
Yes. The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) has evaluated this ingredient as safe for cosmetic use, with a very low irritating or sensitizing potential. However, people allergic to tree nuts are advised to perform a preliminary skin test as a precaution.
Can Kendi oil be applied pure to the face?
Yes, it can be applied pure, as the last step of your evening routine, or mixed with your usual cream. It is also used as a makeup remover base due to its ability to dissolve makeup.
What is the difference between Kendi oil and Kukui oil?
None: "Kendi" and "Kukui" refer to the same oil, extracted from the same tree, Aleurites moluccana. The name varies according to regions of the world: Kukui in Hawaii, Kendi in Indonesia, Candlenut oil in English-speaking countries.
Does Kendi oil have an odor?
No, or very slightly. This is an advantage for formulations that wish to limit the risk of irritation related to fragrances.
Where and how to store Kendi oil?
Being rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, it is sensitive to oxidation. It is recommended to store it away from light and heat, in a well-closed bottle.
In summary
Kendi oil ticks all the boxes for a high-performing plant active ingredient: a rich and balanced composition of omegas 3, 6, and 9, a moisturizing and antioxidant action supported by scientific literature, and a light texture that makes it compatible with most skin types. Whether for gentle makeup removal or for daily skin hydration and protection, it naturally finds its place in a minimalist and effective routine, reflected in the spirit of our skincare products designed to respect and strengthen the skin barrier.
Scientific references
- Cesca, T. G., Faqueti, L. G., Rocha, L. W., Meira, N. A., Meyre-Silva, C., de Souza, M. M., Quintão, N. L. M., Silva, R. M. L., Cechinel Filho, V., & Bresolin, T. M. B. (2012). Antinociceptive, anti-inflammatory and wound healing features in animal models treated with a semisolid herbal medicine based on Aleurites moluccana L. Willd. Euforbiaceae standardized leaf extract. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 143(1), 355-362.
- Cesca, T. G. et al. (2015). Topical anti-inflammatory activity of semisolid containing standardized Aleurites moluccana L. Willd (Euphorbiaceae) leaves extract. PubMed PMID : 26196401.
- Rosa, M. C. B., Ribeiro, P. R., Silva, V. O., Selvati-Rezende, D. A. C., Silva, T. P., Souza, F. R., Cardoso, M. G., Seixas, J. N., Andrade, E. F., Pardi, V., & Murata, R. M. (2022). Fatty acids composition and in vivo biochemical effects of Aleurites moluccana seed (Candlenut) in obese Wistar rats. Diabetology & Metabolic Syndrome. DOI : 10.1186/s13098-022-00847-4.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel — safety assessment of the ingredient Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil for cosmetic use.
- SpecialChem — Cosmetic ingredient sheet Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil, CAS 8015-80-3.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace medical advice. In case of reactive skin, a patch test is recommended before any new application.
